Sewing machine



Dec. 1,1925. 1,564,169

' F. W. ZALESKI SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 23, 1932 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.1.

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F. w. ZALESKI 'sswmencunm.

Filed Jan. 25, 1922 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Anya}.

Dec. 1, 1925- 1.564.169

F. W. ZALESKI SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 23, 1,922 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fig.3.

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Frank w. 2mm, by Q MQ & Mull, Aflys.

Patented Dec. 1, 1925.

7 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK W. ZALESKI, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO REECE SHOE MA- CHINERY COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed January 2a, 1922.

To all whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I, FRANK WV. ZALESKI, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawing.

This invention relates to sewing machines; and more especially to sewing machines wherein a barbed needle is arranged so as normally to advance tl1rough-thework to receive a thread loop and to retract to draw such loop through the work, and a looper is arranged to form a thread loop on the barb of the advanced needle, and a take-up for drawing tight the successive stitches, there being a stitching shaft and timed connections from the shaft for actuating the needle, the looper and the take-up in harmony through cycle after cycle during the normal stitching operations.

An example of such machines is one wherein the barbed needle is curved and cooperates with the other sewing instruments to form chain stitches, for example in the well known welt and turn shoe sewing machine.

The objects of this invention are generally to improve the operation and conven icnce of sewing machines of the kind above referred to, and more especially to provide an improved means whereby when the machine is stopped the shoe or other work may be readily extracted without hindrance from the needle or thread. Heretofore this object has been attempted in various ways, generally involving complications of mechanism and weakening of structure. One plan has been to abnormally manipulate the needle or other stitching instrument so that no loop will be drawn through the work by the needle in the last cycle, but this involves complication of operating connections, rendering the machine less durable. Another plan has been to effect reversal of rotation in the stopping process so that the needle will be disengaged from the loop} this involving a very complicated andexensive stop motion and one very unsatisfactory in use. The present lIlVBIltlOII 1s intended to overcome all of these objections and afford the general objects before-mentioned in such way as not to interfere with tracted needle.

Serial No. 531,083.

the stitching operations or complicate or weaken the structure in any manner.

Another object of the present invention is to afford a machine of the kind referred to in which, after the stitching of one shoe or article, it is unnecessary for the operator to cut the thread before stitching another article; every saving of effort in a machine of this kind being of substantial and CO11'l' mercial importance.

To make the present invention clear I will first explain the cycle of stitching movements. Each stitch may be said to be completed when it has been drawn tight by the take-up. At this moment the needle is extending through the work to or nearly to its advanced position; the looper now moves so as to place a loop on the needle barb. This is followed by the retraction of the needle, which draws the loop through the work, while at the same time the take-up gives thread. After the complete needle retraction it next advances through the loop just formed, penetrating the work at a new point, and as the needle advance continues the take-up operates to draw tight the thread and loop, which usually is accomplished by the time the needle again reaches its advanced position. This completes the cycle. Whenever the machine is stopped, unless this cycle of movements is completed, the final stitch remains incomplete and loose. If the shaft be stopped when the needle is advanced, it is impossible to remove the work because engaged by the needle. If the shaft is advanced somewhat further so'as to retract the needle through the work, this draws another or extra thread loop through the Work which again cannot be extracted from the machine because held by such extra loop and needle barb.

I believe it to be new with the present invention to accomplish-the objects and advantages above mentioned by means of a device, used in combination of the other elements of the machine, which, as distinguished from keeping the loop off, or taking it off the needle, destroys the loop, preferably by severing the thread during the final cycle in stopping the machine. Such a device will preferably comprise a knife or blade fitted to move against the thread which extends from the work to the 're- 7 The movement of this knife, may be effected or brought about through" the operation of a stop motion or otherwise, so that when the machine is stopped, and after the last stitch is completed, the knife moves toward the thread loop and severs it so that there is no longer this obstruction to removing the stitched shoe from the machine.

' The invention might be embodied in numberless mechanical forms but by way of illustration I present the accompanying drawings showing a welt and turn shoe sewing machine embodying one form of the invention.

Fig. 1 is a partial front elevation of a stitching machine of the class mentioned, embodying the present invention and showing for illustration, a stop mechanism of the kind described in Patent 1,420,580 of June 20, 1922.

Fig. 2 is a partial left elevation, partly in section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is an interior left elevation of the needle and its connections, the looper, etc.

Fig. 4 is a partial front elevation of a modified embodiment.

Fig. 5 is a diagram showing the result of the Fig. 4 embodiment.

The shoe X, inverted, is usually guided by hand as the stitching progresses and unites the upper with the lip 033 of the sole 09 and sometimes the welt strip 00 The drive mechanism at the base may be of any type, for example, as in said Patent 1,420,580. A. drive belt 18 is shown engaging a grooved extension 19 of the hand wheel 20 keyed to the left end of the stitching shaft 21.

The stitching shaft is shown as a crank shaft and the connections for driving the needle 22, looper 23, etc., as of the link and lever type actuated from the cranks, in a manner specifically explained in U. S. Patents 1.228.366 of Dec. 17, 1918, and 1,361,952 of Dec. 14, 1920, which may be referred to for particulars. The drawings show also the work support 24, thread hook 26, take-up 27, feed device 28, and other instruments are shown or to be understood. The thread y passes through the hollow looper and th looper rotates on its own axis to lay the thread in the barb of the needle, as well understood. v

The needle 22 is of the curved hooked type, mounted on a block which oscillates about pivot 36 so as to penetrate to the full line position of Fig. 3 and retract to the dotted position. The needle is actuated from crank 38 on the shaftf'21. A pitman 39 extends to an arm 40 fulcrumed at 41. A

" link 43 connects the arm with the needle lever 45, fulcrumed at 47, and a link 48 connects the lever with the needle block.

The driving and stopping may be controlled by pedal lifted by spring '61 to stop the machine. Pedal rod 62 swings a reversing lever 63 so that the stopping rod 64 descends when the pedal is released. The pedal is shown depressed and the other parts are shown at their position at the end of a stitch cycle, with the needle in the work and ready to receive a new loop.

IVhen the pedal is released the rod 64 tends to move down. Through elements 65, 66 and 67 it tends to shift belt 18 from pulley 19 as explained in said Patent 1,420,580, and mechanism is shown for retarding the stitching shaft before the final stoppage, but this need not be here explained.

The pedal release further tends to pull down a link 69 and thereby swing a bell crank 70, the upward arm of which carries a stud engaging a grooved collar 71 formed on a disk 72, which is the controller of the stopping action. While stitching, the pedal holds the cam disk 72 to the left; when the pedal is released the cam tends to shift to the right, but is prevented from doing so by its own contour, seen in Fig. 2, until the depression 76 comes opposite a guard or pin 74. Thus the stopping action is properly timed. The disk 7 2 moves to the right when permitted; its shape then acts to thrust down the guard pin 7 4, which is pressed up by a spring 7 5, and finally the shoulder .77 of the cam impacts against the guard or stop pin 74. In this final interval the belt is shifted and the shaft retarded as stated.

For convenience I have selected the stop or guard pin 74 of the stop motion for timing or bringing about the operation of the loop severing device of this invention, although the movement of a different part could be utilized, so that it operates the severing cevice at the proper time, after the retraction of the needle, and in fact I could ar iilingc a manual lever for operating it at W1 The loop breaker or severing cutter 80 is shown in fully retracted position in the drawings. Its preferred line of action indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 3, it operating upon the taut thread 1/ extending be tween the needle and work. is readily controlled through the stopping cam 72 through the guard pin 74. I prefer that when the pin is thrown down on pass ing out of the depression 76 of the cam, this shifts the cutter nearly to the needle.

Later, when the needle is retracted, a protuberance 81 on the cam gives the additional cutter movement necessary for the cutting operation. The severing is performedand the cutter retracts immediately to a partly retracted position. where it remains when the shaft stops. The restarting of the machine separates cam 72 and pin 74, the latter rising and the cutter fully retracting.

I have shown the cutter Figs. 1, 2 and 3 as a blade extending parallel with Its movement I the shaft, although it might be inclined so as to cut one thread rather than the other. It is mounted on a carrier in the form of a swinging arm 92, shown pivoted at 83 on a frame part or wall 13.

The connections from the stopping pin 7st for causing the knifes movement may be as follows: A bell crank lever 85%, 85 has its upward arm 8 f extended and forked at 86 to engage the pin 74, so that when the pin descends the lever may swing. A spring 87 is shown for causing the horizontal part or arm 85 of the bell crank to rise when the pin drops. The extremity of arm 85 is linked to a lever 88, and at a point between the link and pivot of lever 88 is connected a link 89 extending upwardly to a pivot 90 on the cutter arm 82. Then pin 7% descends, the elements 85, 88, 89, 90 and 82 ascend. The first movement brings the cutter near to the needle, the second movement effects the cutting of the thread. The cutter arm may have a spring 91 to assist its cutting movement, and a stop 92 to pre ent it moving too far.

Fig.v at shows a different form in which the cutter 80 is replaced by a bar 94 on which is carrie'il a pointed cutter or wedge 95, arranged to enter the thread loop, and preferably sharpened at one side 96 only, so as to cut the thread at only one side and leave maximum thread free for starting the next piece of work.

Fig. 5 diagrammatically shows the result. The thread 3 from the looper and supply passes through the work, forming one side g of the loop, this thread -7 continues around. the needle barb and down to the position of the cut Y, the thread y remaining with the shoe. lVhen the work is extracted the thread portion 33 pulls out of the work and gives ample thread length for the nest operation. The seam is proof against being ravcled by pulling on the loose thread end. The usual work of cut-- ting the thread is eliminated and the shoe is readily extracted.

The welt and turn machine of the prior patents mentioned is light running and easily stopped, and the stop mechanism in the drawings hereof might be replaced by a simple friction brake applied by a timing device, with perhaps a final impact to prevent overrunning the desired position. In such case, the cutter hereof could be actuated through the final impact or in many other ways, for exannile, by a special cam rendered op;rative Wlni the stop mechanism operates.

It will be seen that I have described a sewing machine embodying the principles and attaining the objects and advantages recited. Since many matters of design, arrangement, combination, form, and other features may be variously modified with out departing from the principles involved, no limitation to such features is intended except in so far as is specified in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. 1n a power driven chain stitch sewing niachine an operating shaft, a curved hooked needle, connections from the shaft for reciprocating the needle to penetrate the work and receive the thread and to retract and draw a thread loop through the work, means for presenting the thread to the needle hook in each cycle, stopping mechanism operative at the completion of a seam to stop'the machine in position with the needle retracted out of the work, a cutter movably mounted to approach and cut the thread between the hook of the retracted needle and the work, and means operated automatically in the final stitch cycle after the needle has retracted from the work and before the operating shaft comes to a stop to operate the cutter to cut the thread, and thereby release the work.

2. A sewing machine as n. claim 1 and wherein the cutter l, '1 of a wedge shaped piece adapted to enter the thread loop which extends on r the work and needle and having a cut edge at one side only, namely the side furthest from the supply, whereby when the work is removed a subs antial length of low thread is left for starting a new sear;

In testimony whereof, I have affixed my signature hereto.

FRANK w. ZALESKI. 

